Monday, February 15, 2016

Last Post

Reflections.

As I travel back to the United States from Vietnam, I took some time to reflect on the meaning of it all.  I mentioned at the beginning of my blog that I wanted an adventure that had some historical significance to me.  I will explain.  I am a proud son and nephew of Vietnam veterans (Navy, Marines, Army and Air Force).  Also importantly, there is Corporal Thomas M. Phillips, USMC.  Tom and his family lived in Healdsburg, California where I also grew up.  He became a Marine, went to Vietnam and was killed there, in Quang Tri Province, in 1968.   He was 20 years old.  My train passed through Quang Tri on February 9th last week (see blog), two days before what would have been his 68th birthday.  The town of Healdsburg lost six men in Vietnam, from all four branches of the service.  They are all buried in Oak Mound Cemetery, right next to our old football field.  In Tom’s honor, his father would do something each year to raise money to provide a scholarship for a graduate of Healdsburg High School.  I received one of those scholarships.

Corporal Thomas M. Phillips, USMC

During the year leading up to my graduation in 1983, I saw an older, quiet gentleman driving around in an early model restored car, painted a light green color, with a sign on it.  I didn't pay much attention.  Later I found out that it was Mr. Phillips, and he was raffling off that car in order to raise money to fund the scholarship.  I don't know exactly why I was the recipient.  The sponsor for the Aviation Explorer club I was the President of said he recommended me since he knew (more than I did) how much college cost, and that I wasn’t sure how I was going to pay for it.  I was surprised when I received the award during a school graduation event.  At the time I didn't know the foundation of the scholarship.  Mr. Phillips, while he may have been in the audience, wasn't even the one who handed me the check.  It was $1,500 that year--a lot of money to me at age 17 in 1983.  I made sure to visit with him at his home days later, where I found out the origin of the scholarship.  The scholarship would come in handy, and it would also help change the course of my life later on.

I had started flying lessons in Healdsburg my junior year in high school.  I was close to my private pilot license, but it was slow going due to the cost.  When I told my flight instructor, Louie Robinson about the scholarship, and asked if it would be OK to use some of it for the lessons and the FAA evaluation, he said of course it would be.  So with some of that scholarship money, I was able to finish my training and become a licensed pilot at the age of 17.  That paid off later while in college when I applied to be an officer and pilot in the Air Force.  It was a very competitive process, and I didn't have the most competitive grades at the time.  But I scored well on the Air Force aptitude exams, and having that private pilot license on my application won me a commission in the Air Force, and a chance to attend Air Force pilot training.  I did well there and flew the mighty A-10 Warthog, and other aircraft, for many years after training.

I joined the Marine Corps myself in 1984 while I was still in college, and became a Corporal also, before transferring to the Air Force as an officer later on.  I have Mr. Phillips and his son, Corporal Thomas Phillips, to thank.  I wish there was a way I could do just that.  I live a life of gratitude, partly because of them.  I am a 30 year retired military veteran, Marines and Air Force, and currently fly for United Airlines.

So it was with meaning that I wanted to visit Vietnam.  The purpose of my trip was not to visit battlefields (although I did do some of that) or to visit their museums and endure the Vietnamese spin on what they call “The American War” (I'll have my own spin on that later).  I am very familiar with the history of it.  But I did want to see the country, and perhaps symbolically, I wanted to start from the south at the Mekong Delta, and make it all the way to Hanoi.  I wanted to meet the people, make friends, see with my own eyes some of the places I had only read about in books, and generally try to see some of what other Americans saw in that country 40 to 50 years ago.  As my blog illustrates, I did just that.  And I seem to have put some of the pieces together in my mind: why we were there, what it was worth, and the legacy.

It is my opinion that the war in Vietnam was not a war by itself.  You can't talk about that conflict without putting it in context with a longer struggle.  I consider America’s Vietnam War a continuation, and ultimately the beginning of the end of the bitter conflicts we had with Soviet communism.  Those conflicts pre-dated even World War 2.  Of course, during WW2 we allied ourselves with the communist Russians out of necessity.  Once victory was gained in Europe, there was a mad dash there, the West vs East (Russia), to either free or secure land and populations, in the name of democracy or communism, free market vs. not.  It's how we ended up with NATO and the Warsaw Pact (now defunct). What many people don't realize though, is that the chess game after victory in Europe was just part of the outcome--Asia was somewhat ignored by western history.  In the months leading up to the defeat of Japan, which the USA played a major part in and sacrificed so much for (Russia didn't even declare war on Japan until a month prior to the Japanese surrender), there was a land grab going on in East and Southeast Asia.  China, Korea, and Vietnam among them.

For America, WW2 lasted only 4 years, and was costly in terms of both lives and our economy. Politically, however, the battles continued in Europe, and this time it was East vs. West.  For East Asia, deals were made to stop the advancement of Russian sponsored communism, and to limit conflict in the short term.  Countries were arbitrarily divided and lines were drawn on maps, without much consideration of cultural histories or even political leanings in some areas.  After the heinous brutality brought by the Japanese to Asia in the 20s, 30s and 40s, many Asian countries were left in devastation, poverty and disorganization.  Some order was offered through pragmatic leadership, religion, state sponsored communism and democracy, and the assistance those sponsors provided to Asian governments.  How all of that fit into history is the point here.

In Vietnam, the French were there, trying to defend their colonial presence against the Viet Minh and the entrenching communist politico.  The French were not nice to the Vietnamese, before or after WW2. (I'll save my opinion of their role in Vietnam).  In any case, even with US aid the French could not prevail, and they left, but not without some cultural influence in Vietnam, and a lot of hurt feelings.

Enter the United States.  By the 1960s, there was an established North and South Vietnam (not their official names), divided at the Ben Hai River (see blog post 9 Feb).  The North Vietnamese, led by Ho Chi Minh (who we supported during WW2 but didn’t later on) and with Russian and Chinese support, wanted to unify Vietnam.  That meant make it all communist—in other words, take over the south.  South Vietnam was already attempting a democracy, but they sucked at it, and some would say their democratic government wasn’t even legitimate.  They feared the North, and rightfully so.  The North was already known for its own brutality toward the south, and at the time, the communists in general were known for that same type of brutality, in Europe as well as Asia.  Re-education camps, mass executions, corruption, power mongering.  We entered Vietnam to defend democracy and America’s idea of freedom, to try and stop the spread of communism, and to help the South Vietnamese, pure and simple.  We fought there as a strategic defense of the South, not as invaders of the North.  But the war failed strategically, politically and socially.  Fresh in our minds at the time was the Korean War, where we also tried to contain communist expansion—our forces making it to the Chinese border at the Yalu River.  Chinese intervention there resulted in a stalemate where it had all begun, and that conflict still persists to this day.  

America’s war in Vietnam went on for almost 10 years.  President Nixon began US withdrawal and got us out.  Deals were made in Paris—Vietnamization, ‘peace with honor.’  By the end of 1973 we were mostly out of there, leaving the South Vietnamese to defend their own country, with a promise of almost carte blanche military equipment support from the US.  But ultimately the US Congress wouldn't support funding the South’s effort to defend itself against Northern aggression, and that promise was broken.  Nixon threatened the North—if they violated the Paris peace accords, we would bomb them.  The North feared that.  When Nixon resigned, there was no more threat, and the North rolled right into the South and dominated.  Before 1975 was over, there was no longer a South Vietnam.  A million South Vietnamese were put into re-education camps west of Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City).  More than 250,000 did not survive.  More brutality took place in other areas.

But the losers (the South Vietnamese) don't get to write the history.  And you won't find any of that information in any Vietnamese museum these days.  Quite the opposite.  I know, because I went to one, and it was made very clear to me what they want their ‘history’ to be.  1975 wasn’t the end of anything for Vietnam.  In 1978, they were compelled to battle the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia leading to occupation, which resulted in the Chinese coming across the Vietnamese border for three weeks of battle.  Vietnam occupied Cambodia for another 10 years.  The economic toll was tremendous, Vietnam was starving.  After Glasnost and Perestroika (openness and restructuring) was initiated by Gorbachev in Russia, and the collapsing Soviet Union, Vietnam eventually left Cambodia and followed suit.  Uncle Ho wouldn’t recognize the Vietnam of today.  Two US Presidents, Bill and George W have since visited Hanoi.

At its peak, we had over a half-million servicemen in Vietnam at one time.  By the time we left Vietnam, over 50,000 Americans were killed, and many more scarred, physically and emotionally, because of what is endured and witnessed in war.  The fierce battles on the ground and in the air were intense--as much, or more so than previous conflicts.  Not only that, but never before or since have individual U.S. servicemen been subjected to such continuous and frequent battle for such long periods during their tours.  Toward the end of the war, many of those who served with so much courage (voluntarily or not), fought well, faithfully supported their brothers, lost friends and witnessed so much sacrifice, came home and were forced to shed the pride they earned and bury their wounds down deep, after being met with scorn and shame from some of their own countrymen once they arrived.  Shame on those who let that happen.  I am thankful that even the demonstrators I have seen organized at the main gate to the military base I worked at never looked at me with hatred or distaste.  And the few I accidentally met off duty made their point, but not with offense toward me or the military.  I respect them for that, even if I disagreed with their cause.  I think they felt the same way.  Americans have a greater appreciation for the military charged to protect us, regardless of the circumstances.  Even if the cause is in dispute, there is no lack of moral support for the sacrifices of those who serve.  We should take pride in our servicemen and women. Some day we just might need them—maybe a whole lot of them.

Vietnam was a hot spot for the Cold War effort.  I believe we went there as part of that effort. Not many people in America remember nuke drills in the classroom.  I do.  Real or perceived, America was under a threat during the Cold War, and I'm sure Russians felt the same way. Vietnam was a place where we wanted to take a stand against that threat, and we did.  Ultimately, communism, as it existed prior to the 1990s, failed.  Diplomacy and new Western military and economic power, brought to bear in the late 70s and in the 80s, caused one of the world’s superpowers to break down enough to let a little free western light shine in.  That light spread all over Asia and Europe.  Russia could compete technologically and militarily, but they couldn't afford it.  Their Warsaw Pact crumbled.   What exists today are many more first-world countries in Asia with a hybrid, global economy, mostly free markets and open societies, regardless of the political infrastructure.  Parts of the Middle-East and Africa are still behind the times.

In 1975 President Ford said in a speech, “Today America can regain the sense of pride that existed before Vietnam.  But it cannot be achieved by refighting a war that is finished as far as America is concerned.”  A week later, Saigon fell.  I know what he was trying to achieve, and it was a great, positive speech of hope and pride, but I do not agree with those words.  The long fight for Vietnam and the consequences it brought were pivotal in the reorganization of our military and led up to the end of the Cold War.  Technology, equipment, communications, tactics, techniques, intelligence, strategy, America’s awareness of military sacrifice, the all volunteer force—all of it changed because of that war, and became very useful in the years ahead.  We were far better prepared and better equipped going forward.  I was a benefactor of those changes.  For our Nation’s military, our newfound battle rhythms, leadership, equipment and tactics saved countless American lives during future conflicts.  Diplomacy often prevailed, and conflicts were shorter for the most part (or not entered into in the first place), and in any case fought more smartly, with servicemen and women supported by their homeland—servicemen bent on living up to the courage and sacrifices made by their fathers and uncles who fought in Vietnam--and driven to defend the honor of those veterans. 

The courage that our servicemen have always displayed, and our capabilities—ground, sea and air, did not go unnoticed by the world, although they are sometimes forgotten.  Recent events tend to remind us of them.  I believe that for America, the important outcomes described above will be a lasting legacy of the Vietnam War, a legacy provided by those who served there.  I felt it when I enlisted in 1984 and continued to serve--many of my instructors and senior leaders throughout the beginning of my military career served in Vietnam.  Eventually, their influence and hard won lessons (and those of our political leaders) became entrenched in our military’s ethos.  Americans who served in Vietnam should remain proud of their contributions, courage and sacrifices.  They led our nation forward, were noble, and should be recognized for the final outcome.  The same is true for any other veteran of America's wars.

Today, Vietnam is a beautiful country.  I spent time in several areas of Vietnam, tourist and non-tourist.  Enough to recognize some of the regional differences in that country.  Since many of the Vietnamese speak English, I was able to make conversation easily.  While I could detect some unease at times when they found out I was from America, I think it was more or less a general awkwardness.  I did not see one American flag anywhere, but posted some in appropriate locations, which will probably never be found.  One of them will pass through Quang Tri several times a week.  While I didn't care for some of the habits (motorbikes on sidewalks, pollution, litter in the South), I really enjoyed their customs (food, celebrations, work ethic, agriculture).  Except for crossing the street, I never felt at risk or nervous about traveling.  I was amazed at the hospitality the Vietnamese offer, and not just in the hotels or restaurants.  Random people I met offered me gum, chips, cookies, a book to read, a conversation.  “It is in our culture,” as one of my guides on the jungle trek explained to me when I asked if Vietnamese people ever tire of the tourists.  He said that Vietnamese hospitality applies not only among the Vietnamese citizens, but to foreigners as well, “even to Americans” he said.  I didn’t like how he put it, but he was right.

To anyone who served in Vietnam--thank you.  I was only there for two weeks, but I will never forget the experience.  It is a special place and one I would like to go back to--there's more to see, and it is now a welcoming and somewhat free country, as it always should have been.  To Corporal Tom Phillips, if you're out there somewhere: your life touched mine, thank you for everything--I made it home OK.  I wish you did too. Semper Fi.



Best reference to Vietnam Veterans Killed in Action is at: 
Search by name, hometown, etc.


Travel Tips--Vietnam

I have one more final post after this one.  The formatting got messed up.  I finally organized the dates on my blog. They got screwed up due to the delays in posting.

It was an awesome trip but there were a few things that I learned. First of all, it was easy to travel to and from Vietnam. If you're planning on using the train within Vietnam, the earlier you book the better, because it is a cheap and popular way to get around. If you're traveling in a group, you can get a sleeper car for all of you, and if you go overnight, you save on hotel prices. Plane rides within Vietnam are cheap too, especially if you book ahead of time. There are a few airlines that serve within the country, but not all cities have lots of flights going in and out. Dong Hoi has just one a day to Hanoi for example. Air travel there is just like it is here but sometimes they don't use etickets. Also, their carry-on bag policy is very restrictive. They go around before boarding and take peoples bags to check them in. Don't expect to carry anything on that weighs more than about 15 pounds and is no bigger than a large book backpack.

What to wear? It is a little different there. Westerners would wear whatever they want, like short shorts and tank tops. But they don't wear those much, so I'm sure you stand out more, and not in a great way. Jeans and T-shirts were OK, but I usually wore a polo. They dress fairly conservatively there, especially in the North.

It is a good idea to commit to memory how to say things like Thank You, Hello, Where's the toilet, Excuse Me, etc. People really appreciate it, even if you butcher the language somewhat. It was really hard for me to memorize their words for any length of time, so I had some written down. I knew how to say 'do you speak english' which was a good way to get a conversation going. I had someone teach me how to say 'this is a great restaurant' and 'I slept well' but no way I could remember it right now.

I was able to do everything on my iPhone and iPad. I almost got a Vietel sim card to access data and voice over there. They're cheap and easy to get. But I was afraid it would screw something up on my phone so I resisted it. You can access WiFi just about anywhere there for free. All hotels were free, and most cafes and eateries had it for free as well--just ask for their password. Sometimes I could find unlocked WiFi just walking around. I never got hacked as far as I could tell. I used a VPN service I subscribe to to access US websites like Facebook and others that are sometimes locked down over there. About midway through the trip, I could no longer access to view my blog without the VPN on. Weird. Posting to it was no problem though because the posts were just emails to a special email address I set up in Blogger so it was easy. I don't know what happened when google locked me out of everything, but I suspect it was because I was using VPN and non VPN at the same time so it probably triggered some spam algorithm.

You should defiantly have a skype account pre-loaded with some credits before you travel anywhere. It has a good iphone app. You can call or text anywhere as long as you're on WiFi--any country, even within Vietnam. That saved me many times, especially when I had to call my own cell phone's voicemail to get the google code to unlock my email. Plus, it was nice to be able to call hotels and airlines rather than counting on the email all the time. Although they were pretty good about answering me that way. Other than that, facetime audio and facetime video worked like a champ to other i-devices.

 I didn't update my apps or download new ones on my phone or ipad before I left, thinking I would just do it there. That was a mistake. In Vietnam, for some reason they don't allow you to update or get new apps unless your itunes account has a Vietnamese bank card or credit card registered to it. I couldn't figure out a way around that. I suspect it is an Apple limitation but who knows. Not even my VPN could get around that. I really wanted to have the Translate app installed. I saw lots of people using it to communicate with Vietnamese who couldn't speak much English (or pretended not to).

 Power plugs in Vietnam are 220 volts, which is no problem for most cell phones and pads. But the plug itself could be a problem. They use a two-prong round plug rather than our flat ones, but almost all of the outlets there were dual-use meaning they also took our flat plugs. I had a universal power adapter with USB plugs on it, but it literally lit up with smoke and sparks the first time I plugged it in (made in China); luckily it was fused so that's all that blew. I didn't replace it since I didn't need to. But when I got to Hong Kong, they have a wide two prong round plug thing that wouldn't take my iphone power box. (but in the bathroom they had a hairdryer mount that would take it for electric razors, so I was saved). I will be shopping for a simple travel adapter that is small just so I can plug in my devices to charge. I already use a power box that holds two USB cables, and several 7 foot cables to go with it since there aren't a lot of outlets in rooms.

I went there with almost no preparation, which isn't like me, but I got a lot done in two weeks. It's not like going to Europe or some other places where you can get by easier or seems more familiar. But it was much easier than I thought it would be.

Hong Kong, and home

There is no need for getting a visa in Hong Kong it's a great layover. If I had another day or two I would have taken the train into the city. I haven't seen Hong Kong yet.

The Regal Airport Hotel is literally attached to the terminals and is a 5 minute walk from departures and arrivals, all indoors. I highly recommend it for stress free layovers. You can see the airport ramp out the window of my room.

That's the rig taking me home. A United 777-200. It's the first time I got a first class international flight on standby travel. Yep it was nice! I decided to take the Chicago bound flight instead of San Fransisco because it was the first flight out of HKG (rule #1) and because the SFO to Vegas flights were filling up.

My flight landed early (11:30AM) at Chicago so even with customs/immigration/agriculture and security checks I was able to make a 1 hour turn to a 12:30 Vegas connection, and I was home by 3:00 Vegas time on Monday. It's weird because I took off out of Hong Kong at 11:30AM Monday morning HKG time. I was home 30 hours after leaving Vietnam, including the HKG layover.

Sunday, February 14, 2016

Hanoi video, and pictures

This is a video of all of my Hanoi clips. 
Click to view video:

It was a relief to have a confirmed seat out of Hanoi to Hong Kong. But it would have been nice to spend more time in Hanoi. It's definitely the place to go to if anyone wants to travel to Vietnam. There's lots to do in the city, but the surrounding area is a great example of Asian culture, and it's a cheap and quick two hour flight from Hong Kong. 

The Hanoi airport terminal looks brand new and is easy to figure out. Why don't all airports have these terminal maps? (I'm talking to you Dulles, Chicago, Newark). 

















AJ

Hoa Lo prison (2)

(above and below)
This is a museum now. It was built by the French and held Vietnamese prisoners until the Viet Minh took over in the 50s.

It's known by many as the "Hanoi Hilton," but it was no hotel. I saw a lot of Americans visiting. If you've read any of the books written by those who were held captive at Hoa Lo prison you would have the complete picture. Stockdale, McCain, Day, and many others. Most of them were pilots or other aircrew, shot down during their mission.

A good read, not just about this prison, is Bud Day's book Return With Honor. I have a signed copy. The Colonel in charge of my ROTC Detachment at Arizona State, Col Larry Carrigan spent almost six years as a POW in Vietnam, and was confined here. His wife and kids didn't even know he was alive for three years--he was MIA--the Vietnamese didn't even release his name. Many Americans were left to die of wounds, starved or tortured to death here.

That's a picture of John McCains flight gear that he was wearing when he was captured. He landed in a lake just a few miles from this prison. It is an erie place. Made worse were the video presentations and displays. They showed the good treatment, food, cigarettes, basketball, Christmas celebrations, letters from home handed out--you get the picture. All a bunch of bullshit.

Such was the successful propaganda campaign North Vietnam waged throughout the war. The propaganda wasn't just for the world. It also painted a noble picture to the Viet citizens. The POWs were on the front lines of that campaign; they fought and died here, in this prison. And we will never know the names of some of those who died here. Some are still listed as MIA to this day.

Hoa Lo prison (1)

On the way to Hoa Lo

The hotel desk clerk downstairs told me about a great place to eat. It's Bun bo Nam Bo and they serve a dish by the same name. It was meat with a little soup, rice noodles, leafy greens, peanuts, crispy roasted garlic piled on, and other spices. It was very good. The place was full too. I sat across from a couple of dudes from Italy. They were fish out of water but they just flew in that morning. It was a great lunch. I gave them some tips, especially about the eating procedures in Vietnam, and how to cross the streets.
There's one picture just of a couple buildings. The living structures are tall and mostly one room wide. Often the bottom living room is converted into a restaurant, workshop or store. You can see bird cages on one building. Lots of birds are kept outside as decoration, which is kinda nice because you can hear them singing and chirping even I over the traffic noise.

Another interesting thing--Vietnamese women usually walk holding each other's arms or hands. Kinda sexy. Especially these two! At the airport even the flight attendants walk around like that.

Hanoi--first and last morning

14 February 2016. Woke up today still worried about how to get to Hong Kong. Since I'm an airline employee I can fly standby on some international airlines. I had listed myself on Dragonair to HKG for tomorrow at 10:15AM (cost to me $18). But I've been tracking the paid seats on Kayak--they went from $330 to $1150 which tells me the plane is filling up. The last thing I want to do is to be in get-home mode, get the the airport, and have to go back to a hotel to try again the next day. So I checked for tonight's flights and Dragonair has one at 7:30PM for $280 so I pulled the trigger. What a relief. It still gives me most of today to do what I want to do this trip in Hanoi. I feel like if I come back to Vietnam it will just be to the northern part next time anyway. Hanoi is a must visit, and there's lots to see and do in the north.

I also reserved a room at the Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel for $129. I had to lay over there a night anyway because the 3 United flights from HKG to the states leave in the mornings.

So off I went into the streets to check off the last thing on my list to do in Vietnam--visit and tour the Hoa Lo prison. On the way I finally succumbed to the street vendors and bought some souvenirs. Wood bead bracelets from this lady. I wish I got a picture with the old half blind man who sold me a small book with a bunch of old money inside it. I also got a wood box and bowl.

Saturday, February 13, 2016

Back in my room,

Finally, Coke Zero and ice cream. Pogey bait. (No pogeys in my room tho, it's just for me). It was warm and humid tonight, and I walked for about 3-4 hours, so the room felt great.
My bathroom has a scale in it. Haven't gained any weight. That's a relief since I don't always know what I'm eating. The jungle trek helped too I'm sure.

I'm still trying to figure out my return plans. But tomorrow I plan on more Hanoi exploring. And I'll get a little more adventurous in the eating department. I've been careful this trip since I didn't want to get the craps (or worse) with a week left. If it happens now I could live with it tho. YOLO as the kids say.

Hoa Lo Prison at night.

This is the notorious Hanoi Hilton. The main prison for our POWs during the Vietnam war. I'll visit here more tomorrow during the day, and I'll be able to enter it so more on that later.
The light is shining on the top edge of the tall wall. If you look close you can see the broken glass implanted into the mortar to serve as a deterrent for climbing the wall to escape.
This prison was put up by the French in the 1880s to house Viet prisoners. You probably remember the term 'French Indochina.' I won't get into a geography lesson, but the Frenchies colonized this part of the world back in the day. The French set a bad precedent here at this prison.